GIBRALTAR - THE HISTORY

When people think of the history of Gibraltar they often think in terms of the bloody 18th century sieges when Spain tried to regain the Rock from the British. However, the history of Gibraltar very much reflects that of the Mediterranean and it could indeed be argued that it reflects that of man himself.

When man first lived in Gibraltar he dwelt in the numerous caves that make up the Rock. In 1848 an ancient skull (see photo) now housed in the British Museum in London, was discovered in Forbes' Quay which is at the foot of the Rock's steep North face. It was a woman's skull. Eight years later an identical skull was discovered in the Neander Valley near Dusseldorf in Germany. This skull came to be known to us as that of Neanderthal Man but it could be strongly argued that Neanderthal Man should in fact be Gibraltar Woman.

The ancient Greeks applied the name Calpe to the rock of Gibraltar. It means a vessel or ship. They gave the same name to a rock, which is very similar to Gibraltar at Ifach in Spain on the Costa Blanca plus other in the Med. Ledesma Miranda, in his book 'Gibraltar, La Roca de Calpe' suggests that the Scylla and Charybdis of the Odyssey were like to have been the Pillars of Hercules – the Rock of Gibraltar on one side and Mont Abyla in Morocco on the other.

Apart from the Greeks, the Phoenicians, Visigoths and Romans all passed this way. The Muslim invasion of Europe started across the Straits of Gibraltar when the Berber chief Tarik Ibn Zeyad invaded Tarifa. He later moved on to take Mons Calpe which he promptly renamed Jebel Tarik – the rock of Tarik. It is from Jebel Tarik that Gibraltar gets its name.

Gibraltar remained under Moorish domination for seven centuries. It didn't come under Spanish rule till the early 14th century and then for just 24 years. Then in 1462 the Spaniards finally recaptured the Rock and held it until the beginning of the 18th century.

In 1502, the Spanish Crown took back control of Gibraltar from the Duke of Medina Sidonia. It gave Gibraltar a coat of arms – a red castle with a golden key. It is still Gibraltar's arms till this day and the Rock interestingly shares it with nearby town of San Roque. It was to San Roque (Gibraltar's traditional place of pilgrimage) that the Rock's Spanish residents fled after England took over in 1704. They intended to stay there till the Spanish army re-took Gibraltar and they could return home.

In 1540 the great Queen Isabella died. In her will she wrote of Gibraltar: "That they may always hold for The Crown and in Our Royal Patrimony the said City of Gibraltar, with all which appertains thereto, and may not give away nor alienate, nor consent to being given or alienated, any part thereof." None-the-less, her descendent Philip V gave it away conditionally but effectively to Britain in 1713.

Admiral Rooke took the Rock for England in 1704 when he led an Anglo-Dutch force in the Spanish War of Succession. The Treaty of Utrecht of 1713 ceded Gibraltar to the British crown in perpetuity and it is on the basis of that treaty that Gibraltar remains British to this day.

Over the years Spain has attempted to retake Gibraltar. There were a series of bloody sieges in the 18th century. In 1969 Franco closed the border between Spain and Gibraltar for 13 years. Today, a more subtle siege continues with occasional enforced lengthy delays in crossing the border by car.

The Battle of Trafalgar was fought off the Cádiz coast in 1805. It was into Gibraltar's harbour that HMS Victory sailed with the body of Admiral Nelson, stored it is said, in a barrel of rum, although it was more likely wine.

During the 19th century Gibraltar enjoyed its heyday as a port. It was a staging point on the vital route to India. Gibraltar also played an important part in both World Wars. In World War II it was home to naval fleet Force H. It was from Gibraltar that Eisenhower masterminded the North Africa landings of 1942.

For an in-depth view of Gibraltar's history visitors should visit the splendid Gibraltar Museum situated in the centre of town at Bomb House Lane. It is just a few minutes walk off Main Street from Marks & Spencer and is clearly sign-posted.

NATURAL HISTORY

The Rock of Gibraltar is a giant slab of jagged Jurassic limestone. It has dominated the Straits of Gibraltar for around 200 million years and of course over such a period has continually changed and evolved. The porous limestone ensures that the Rock always has a plentiful water supply. So when nearby Spain is often arid and brown the Rock will be lush and green.

At one time the rock was covered in natural woodland. Soldiers and others cleared this in search of firewood. Today, the upper reaches are essentially green again covered with shrubs and trees such as nettle trees, carob, eucalyptus and wild olives. There are also a wide variety of wild flowers including Gibraltar's own Candytuft and Chickweed.

In the past red deer, wolves and wild boar would have made their homes on the Rock. They may have disappeared but the teeming bird life goes on with over 200 species having been recorded. Many of these are migratory birds whose habits have been unchanged by time.

What to look out for.

The Barbary Apes: Nobody knows how the famous tailless Macaques came to be on the Rock. They certainly have brothers and sisters across the Straits on Mont Abyla. However, Mr F E Zeuner believes they are true ancient Europeans. In the scientific journal Oryx he said that ten million years ago Macaques roamed across France, Holland and Germany. He believes the onset of the iceage may have driven them south with the last traces of them found nestling on Gibraltar's rock.

Legend says that when the apes leave the Rock so too will the British. During World War II, when Sir Winston Churchill heard there were only seven apes left on Gibraltar, he hurriedly had another seven brought in from North Africa.

There currently are six troops of Macaques and they can be viewed at the Apes' Den at the Upper Rock Nature Reserve. The best way to reach it is either by the Cable Car or on one of the Rock Tours.

The Cable Car is situated at Grand Parade and operates between 0930 and 1800. Closed Sundays.

Rock Tours are operated by Blands (Tel: 79200) and also by the Gibraltar Taxi Association (Tel: 70027).

Dolphins & Whales: There are three species of dolphin commonly found in the Bay and Straits of Gibraltar. They are the Common Dolphin, the Striped Dolphin and the larger Bottle-nosed Dolphin. There are numerous dolphin-watching trips on offer and it is not unusually to be able to see these fascinating creatures close up. Much rarer is the sighting of whales. They do also migrate here including the largest mammal of all, the Blue Whale. However, sadly, such sightings are not common today.

Dolphin Watching Trips:

Dolphin Safari, Marina Bay – Tel: 71914

Pride of Gibraltar, Queensway Quay – Tel: 48684

Jolly Joevan, Watergardens Quay – Tel: 74430

Nimo, Queensway Quay – Tel: 73719

Nautilus, Admirals Walk, Marina Bay – Tel: 73400

Dolphin World, Admirals Walk, Marina Bay – Tel: Mobile 54481000

Bird Watching: As the Straits of Gibraltar are the narrowest crossing point for birds migrating to and from Europe to Africa the Rock offers unrivalled bird watching opportunities. Gibraltar also has its permanent residents such as the Barbary Partridge, which originally was only to be found in North Africa.

Look out for Griffon vultures. Several of the few colonies in Southern Europe of these birds are found in the nearby Campo de Gibraltar area of Spain. Storks can also be seen and these too have their nests just across the border with a large number of them nesting on electricity pylons at Estacion de San Roque railway container yard.

The Botanic Gardens: The beautiful Alameda Gardens were first opened in 1816. Around the gardens are a number of commemorative busts and cannons dating from the 19th century. Chief attraction are the splendid plants and trees some of which are native to the Rock whilst others have been imported. The Gardens are open from 0800 to dusk daily. Admission is free.